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A visit to the Orang Asli people of Taman Negara

The last planned activity we had in Taman Negara was to visit an indigenous tribe called Orang Asli. These people have been living and hunting in the forest for generations. This tribe is the only one still under federal protection and is the only group still allowed to hunt in the protected forest. We were looking forward to seeing their way of life!

We met again at Wan Floating Restaurant and prepared to head out. It was a beautiful and hot afternoon, the sun was shining, birds were singing and we were boarding a boat. After a short float upstream (5-7 minutes) on the Teresek River, we disembarked and began to climb a very steep sandy embankment. The tribe lived up this hill.

disembarking

leaving

When we wandered in we saw small figures running around the compound and shy eyes peeking out from behind tattered curtains. The houses were small huts made from natural materials and there was brightly colored laundry hanging outside.

laundry and huts

peeking out from behind the curtain

boy in hut

One thing that struck me was the amount of trash lying around. For a nomadic people, I didn’t expect to see so much waste! But we learned that the Orang Asli people understand very little about waste management or how it affects their environment.

trash

We sat down under a canopy where our guide began to tell us about this tribe. “Orang Asli” literally means “original people” in Malay. These people are indigenous to the land and are thought to have been living in Taman Negara for around 8,000 years. This particular tribe was of the “Negrito” category which contains 6 different tribes. We visited the Bateq (pronounced Ba- took) tribe. We learned that these people (as well as each of the other 60 tribes) speak their own language and live off of the land. They hunt animals like monkeys and birds for food, and get water from a small stream rather than from the Teresek River. They tend to stay in one place until something like a death happens, at which point, the chief decides to leave and move on to another place.

Up until a few years ago, these people didn’t own clothes, but as they began allowing more tourists in to see their way of life, they began to assimilate (at least most of them have).

little naked boy

One interesting fact we learned is that once the children reach 10 years of age, they live in huts of their own with their peers. They are responsible for the construction of their homes and from this time on, they live with other children around their age. We were also warned that children learn how to use machetes and knives from a very young age and that we should not be alarmed if we saw kids carrying them around.

kids hanging out

girl with machete

After being debriefed on the tribe, we were able to watch two demonstrations: the first one showed us how they make fire using rattan (a skinny but strong jungle vine), a specially carved piece of wood, and some kindling wrapped up in a leaf.

rattan

embers go

A very shy man came up to show us how to make fire. We later learned that he was the chief of this particular group. He carefully placed the rattan under the wood, lined up with ridges carved specifically for the rattan. He put his foot on top of the wood to hold it steady and then he began to pull the rattan back and forth speedily. It wasn’t long before we saw smoke begin to form. There was also another small hole in the wood which actually creates the embers. Then, he took the piece of wood to the kindling and brushed out the embers and gently blew on it. Soon we had a small fire! It was pretty cool to watch him! Trent also tried it out. It’s harder than it looks!

The chief of the tribe

The chief of the tribe

making fire

fire

trent trying to make fire

The second thing we got to learn about was how they hunt. They use poison dart guns. The guns are fashioned out of three carefully sized bamboo pieces that fit together. The darts themselves are palm spikes dipped in the venomous sap from the Ipol tree, and the outer part of the dart was made from a resin called dammar. The people use a special leaf to buff it until it is smooth before being able to use it. They also have special cases that carry these darts when they are not in use.

bamboo piece of the dartgun

me checking out the dart gun

dart

leaf to buff the dart

dart container

The chief showed us how to use it, aiming at a target at the end of our tent. He was deadly accurate! Then we each got a turn to try. Trent went first and was much more successful than I was. He didn’t hit the bull’s eye, but he came pretty close! When it was my turn, I didn’t blow nearly hard enough. I didn’t realize how much air was needed to make it to the mark! Mine fell far short of the target… wah, wah, wah. It was cool to try anyways.

Trent dartgun

Angie dartgun

In the middle of this demonstration, a large, strangely masked bird appeared and literally walked through the middle of our group. I had never seen this kind of bird before. When we returned and researched it, we found out that it is called a “Crested Fireback.” It was a beautiful bird with such vivid feathers!

crested fireback

crested fireback2

After the demonstrations, we interacted a little bit with the people, who were very shy. The kids were a bit suspicious and the adults kept to themselves. We did get to sneak in one photo with two very cute kids (two of the chief’s children) and wander around a bit more. I got to take lots of candid photos!

us with the family

girl in hut

baby playing with the cat

baby peeking around

woman and child

Cooking utensils used by the Orang Asli people

Cooking utensils used by the Orang Asli people

I have to say, this place and these kids reminded me so much of home where I taught Somali refugees for two years. These children made me nostalgic of the kids I taught and love back in San Antonio. All in all, it was a very cool experience and we enjoyed learning about the ways and lifestyles of these indigenous people!

girl in brightly colored sari

Some of the Somali kids I worked with in San Antonio.

Some of the Somali kids I worked with in San Antonio.

my babies back home

 
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Posted by on April 25, 2015 in Uncategorized

 

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Taman Negara- Exploring on our own

It was Wednesday morning, and our last full day in Taman Negara. On our agenda for the day- only one thing- a visit to the Orang Asli tribe, people indigenous to the land. We had a leisurely morning beginning at the Family Restaurant. We began our day with French toast and honey and some eggs and toast. Then we headed next door to Wan Floating Restaurant to book our return tickets for the next day. After all of that was taken care of, we caught a jetty across the river for 1 ringgit each and ventured out to explore the park on our own.

When we got to the other side, we climbed the stairs and took pictures next to the park sign before wandering through Mutiara resort to the walkway beginning. The resort had been absolutely torn apart by flooding and damages. Everything was roped off and under construction. What a pity- I’m sure it had been a gorgeous place to stay!

national park sign

Trent and I holding the flag

resort under construction

huge trees outside the resort

As we wandered along, we stopped in the park’s visitors center and looked at a map of Teresik Trail along with some information about what kinds of plants and animals we might encounter. Along the walls, there were skulls of animals that resided in the park and some plaques explaining the history of the forest. We spent a few minutes here taking in information, but were anxious to hit the trails ourselves to see what we would encounter.

park centre

skull

trail map

walkway

We set out, paying special attention to the flora and fauna around us. We really didn’t have much of a chance to leisurely enjoy our surroundings on our other two tours- on the canopy tour we were hiking like madmen and the night tour didn’t have much we could see for obvious reasons. There were beautiful flowers, brightly colored insects and birds tucked away high up in branches.

flowers

flowers2

flowers3

bee with flowerscentipede

dragonflybird

bird2

bird3

bird4

bird5

bird6

We walked quietly along, hoping for an encounter with some monkeys or some other cool animals. The first major animal we saw was a monitor lizard. Trent saw it first and pointed it out to me. Just below us on the forest floor was this very large lizard that we first encountered in the Philippines. We silently watched him for a while, fascinated by his size and his long, flicking tongue. We snapped several photos and continued on.

monitor lizard

monitor lizard2

monitor lizard3

We saw other interesting things along the way- big nail marks and scratches on trees, very large droppings, and huge trees. We saw squirrels chasing each other up trees.

claw marks

scratch marks

poop

super tall trees

Not too long after, we ran into a group of people, likely on a tour, that had stopped and were watching something. We stopped alongside them and saw several monkeys playing around in the surrounding trees. I love monkeys! I had secretly hoped that we would see some (not that we hadn’t already seen several groups of them on this trip) but was trying not to get my hopes up too high. Most of the group continued on, but we stayed along with another couple, snapping pictures and just watching these fascinating creatures. We got to talking and found out that they are also teachers in China- teaching at an international school just outside of Shanghai. Ironically, Stephanie and James were going to be in Qingdao in a few weeks for an MUN conference. What a small world! We stood there and talked with them until long after the monkeys had disappeared and then continued on our separate ways.

monkey

monkey2

monkey3

monkey4

As we were leaving, we caught sight of another, much smaller monitor lizard, and snapped his picture before he scurried off into the woods.

2nd monitor lizard

We only ventured a little bit further, as the walkway was sectioned off and we could not proceed any further. We wandered back to the deer blind we had sat in the night before and watched for a few minutes, not seeing anything (most life in the rainforest is nocturnal). Then we wandered out into the field. For some reason, it was almost magical. There were beautiful butterflies dancing around each other, dragonflies darting about, and a stillness that was captivating. We were surrounded by greenery and the sun was shining down on us, shimmering off of the small puddles in the field.

butterflies

butterfly in the prairie

deer blind from the field

dragonflies in the prairie

puddles

When we realized what time it was, we had to head back. I couldn’t believe we’d spent nearly 4 hours exploring on our own! I could have spent all day there! But our next tour awaited us, and our stomachs were also telling us that it was time to return. We turned around and headed back the same way we had come, hopped on the jetty and went back to the other side, eager for some lunch and our next adventure!

 
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Posted by on April 6, 2015 in Uncategorized

 

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